Brisket is a large, tough cut of beef that comes from the lower chest of a cow. Because this muscle does a lot of work supporting the animal's weight, it starts out quite tough and filled with connective tissue. But when cooked slowly for many hours at low heat, something magical happens: all that tough tissue melts into gelatin, and the meat becomes incredibly tender and flavorful.

Brisket is the star of Texas-style barbecue, where it's smoked for 12 hours or more until it develops a dark, crusty exterior (called bark) and a juicy interior with a pink “smoke ring.” It's also essential in Jewish cooking, where it's braised (cooked covered in liquid) for holiday meals. Corned beef, the meat in a Reuben sandwich, is brisket that's been cured in salt and spices.

Cooking brisket well requires patience. If you try to rush it with high heat, you'll end up with meat so tough you can barely chew it. But give it time, and the same cut transforms into something melt-in-your-mouth delicious. Many pitmasters consider a perfectly smoked brisket the ultimate test of their skill.